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Mountains of Scotland,Five sisters of Kintail

"Ye are whit ye are and no whit your no. So jist be ye'rsel and no whit your no"

By a photographer who knows he is no poet.

 

The Five Sisters of Kintail.


Ref No: 211 / A

Photographs of Scotland's Mountains. This photograph shows one of the most popular groups of Scottish Mountains.
The evening light catches the snow on the ridge of the Five Sisiters of Kintail. These hills lie at the head of Loch Duich at the western end of Glen Shiel, a magnificent area where a sea of mountains surround you as you enjoy this classic West Highland ridge walk. When I reach the eastern end of Loch Cluanie and head westward along the A87 I always have that feeling of expectancy, a feeling that I am entering a special area, a feeling that I will see the landscape anew and invarably I do. Sitting at the heart of Glen Shiel is the Cluanie Inn, a virtual cross roads for the hill walker. No matter in which direction you fix your gaze, your eyes are filled with a landscape of shapely and enchanting mountains. Rising steeply on the south side of the Glen is the South Shiel Ridge, with no less than seven Munros to be bagged in a long but wonderful hill day. As you make your way along this ridge, the vista to the South is worth the effort alone, as your eyes are drawn to the hills above Loch Quoich and into the wild bounds of Knoydart. To the North and North West lie the hills enclosing Glen Shiel which include the Five Sisters, behind these tops, are the hills of Glen Affric and Loch Mullardoch, a wild area of great beauty.

Glen Affric is a particular favourite of mine and a very special place as it contains one of the largest ancient Caledonian pinewoods in Scotland. In 1989 myself and two pals spent a week climbing in Glen Affric, having walked in from Affric Lodge near Cannich and camping beside the Hostel. The Alltbeithe Youth Hostel can also be reached from Cluanie by a good path, but you won't see any trees at this end of the Glen. After three days climbing Jack chose to have a day off, Craig and I deciding to climb Beinn Fhada, left him at the tents. On our return there was no sign of the bold Jack. One hour later, with a smile as wide as the Clyde, he returned and informed us he had gone for a pint at the Cluanie Inn, a round trip of aprox. fourteen mile, ( a fair wee walk for the messages) but as always he remembered his thirsty companions but tried to double the price of the can he brought us, claiming carriage.

The Five Sisters lie at the Western end of Glen Shiel and legend has it that at one time there were seven daughters of a local chief, two of whom were taken as brides by two Irish brothers. On departing Kintail, they promised to return with their five brothers, who would marry the remaining sisters. The years passed with no sign of the Irishmen returning, so to preserve their beauty while they waited, the local witch doctor from Kintail turned them into the graceful and shapely mountains which we admire so much today. All I can say is they must have been right bonnie lasses, the Irish brothers loss has been the walkers gain.

I could go on and on, telling of the delights that await when you visit this area, but I cannot leave this page without mentioning Glenelg. Passing the Five Sisters you arrive at Shiel Bridge at the head of Loch Duich, here a minor road on your left takes you over the Mam Ratagan Pass to Glenelg. Many years ago this was quite a scary road, twisting and turning as it did and reaching a height of a thousand feet or so. Today the road attains the same height, but is wider and less twisty. Roughly halfway up, an area has been dug into the side of the hill where you can stop and admire the magnificent view and look down on Loch Duich and across to the Five Sisters. Take a picnic, as the panorama will have you glued to the heather.The scene laid out before you, must rank as one of the best views which can be enjoyed from the comfort of a car, in all of Scotland. From the top of Mam Ratagan the road drops steeply into Glen More and follows the old military road to the village of Glenelg. In past years, the village was the main crossing point to the Isle of Skye, until the road from Inverness reached the Kyle of Lochalsh early in 1800.The ferry still makes the crossing to Kylerhea, but is seasonal. The geographical location of Glenelg made it a village of great importance. After the Jacobite rebellion of 1715 the Government, in their efforts to subdue the Highlander, built several Barracks throughout the Highlands of Scotland to house their Redcoat troops. The Bernera Barracks to the North of Glenelg were built in 1723 and although, in a ruinous state much of the three storey building can still be seen. Going even further back in history, Glenelg can boast the best preserved Broch in Scotland, Dun Telve is one of three brochs positioned just South of the village and are quite astonishing, really and truly, you must visit them. The Inn at Glenelg has good accomodation and food and I am sure there is still a small campsite next to the beach.

Have you ever met someone, known them for just three days and felt you had a friend for life?. I met Iain MacDonald in Glenelg many years ago when working on a feature assignment in the area, he was tending the gardens at the Church. Iain worked with the forestry and lived at the top of Glen More. I was taken to meet his family and given dinner and had a most enjoyable evening. He was a most interesting and kindly person, I kept in touch, but sadly many years later, he was killed on the Mam Ratagan. He new who he was and was blessed with a gift of being able to make friends easily, a rare gift to possess .

 

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