Photographs of Scotland's Mountains. This photograph
shows one of the most popular groups of Scottish Mountains.
The evening light catches the snow on the ridge of the
Five Sisiters of Kintail. These hills lie at the head
of Loch Duich at the western end of Glen Shiel, a magnificent
area where a sea of mountains surround you as you enjoy
this classic West Highland ridge walk. When I reach the
eastern end of Loch Cluanie and head westward along the
A87 I always have that feeling of expectancy, a feeling
that I am entering a special area, a feeling that I will
see the landscape anew and invarably I do. Sitting at
the heart of Glen Shiel is the Cluanie Inn, a virtual
cross roads for the hill walker. No matter in which direction
you fix your gaze, your eyes are filled with a landscape
of shapely and enchanting mountains. Rising steeply on
the south side of the Glen is the South Shiel Ridge, with
no less than seven Munros to be bagged in a long but wonderful
hill day. As you make your way along this ridge, the vista
to the South is worth the effort alone, as your eyes are
drawn to the hills above Loch Quoich and into the wild
bounds of Knoydart. To the North and North West lie the
hills enclosing Glen Shiel which include the Five Sisters,
behind these tops, are the hills of Glen Affric and Loch
Mullardoch, a wild area of great beauty.
Glen Affric is a particular favourite of mine and a very
special place as it contains one of the largest ancient
Caledonian pinewoods in Scotland. In 1989 myself and two
pals spent a week climbing in Glen Affric, having walked
in from Affric Lodge near Cannich and camping beside the
Hostel. The Alltbeithe Youth Hostel can also be reached
from Cluanie by a good path, but you won't see any trees
at this end of the Glen. After three days climbing Jack
chose to have a day off, Craig and I deciding to climb
Beinn Fhada, left him at the tents. On our return there
was no sign of the bold Jack. One hour later, with a smile
as wide as the Clyde, he returned and informed us he had
gone for a pint at the Cluanie Inn, a round trip of aprox.
fourteen mile, ( a fair wee walk for the messages) but
as always he remembered his thirsty companions but tried
to double the price of the can he brought us, claiming
carriage.
The Five Sisters lie at the Western end of Glen Shiel
and legend has it that at one time there were seven daughters
of a local chief, two of whom were taken as brides by
two Irish brothers. On departing Kintail, they promised
to return with their five brothers, who would marry the
remaining sisters. The years passed with no sign of the
Irishmen returning, so to preserve their beauty while
they waited, the local witch doctor from Kintail turned
them into the graceful and shapely mountains which we
admire so much today. All I can say is they must have
been right bonnie lasses, the Irish brothers loss has
been the walkers gain.
I could go on and on, telling of the delights that await
when you visit this area, but I cannot leave this page
without mentioning Glenelg. Passing the Five Sisters you
arrive at Shiel Bridge at the head of Loch Duich, here
a minor road on your left takes you over the Mam Ratagan
Pass to Glenelg. Many years ago this was quite a scary
road, twisting and turning as it did and reaching a height
of a thousand feet or so. Today the road attains the same
height, but is wider and less twisty. Roughly halfway
up, an area has been dug into the side of the hill where
you can stop and admire the magnificent view and look
down on Loch Duich and across to the Five Sisters. Take
a picnic, as the panorama will have you glued to the heather.The
scene laid out before you, must rank as one of the best
views which can be enjoyed from the comfort of a car,
in all of Scotland. From the top of Mam Ratagan the road
drops steeply into Glen More and follows the old military
road to the village of Glenelg. In past years, the village
was the main crossing point to the Isle of Skye, until
the road from Inverness reached the Kyle of Lochalsh early
in 1800.The ferry still makes the crossing to Kylerhea,
but is seasonal. The geographical location of Glenelg
made it a village of great importance. After the Jacobite
rebellion of 1715 the Government, in their efforts to
subdue the Highlander, built several Barracks throughout
the Highlands of Scotland to house their Redcoat troops.
The Bernera Barracks to the North of Glenelg were built
in 1723 and although, in a ruinous state much of the three
storey building can still be seen. Going even further
back in history, Glenelg can boast the best preserved
Broch in Scotland, Dun Telve is one of three brochs positioned
just South of the village and are quite astonishing, really
and truly, you must visit them. The Inn at Glenelg has
good accomodation and food and I am sure there is still
a small campsite next to the beach.
Have you ever met someone, known them for just three
days and felt you had a friend for life?. I met Iain MacDonald
in Glenelg many years ago when working on a feature assignment
in the area, he was tending the gardens at the Church.
Iain worked with the forestry and lived at the top of
Glen More. I was taken to meet his family and given dinner
and had a most enjoyable evening. He was a most interesting
and kindly person, I kept in touch, but sadly many years
later, he was killed on the Mam Ratagan. He new who he
was and was blessed with a gift of being able to make
friends easily, a rare gift to possess .