The Glen of Weeping - Glencoe. Pictures of Scotland's
best known Glen. This picture's of Blackrock Cottage in
Glencoe which is one of the most photographed cottages
in Scotland. I include it, not because it is a great picture
of the Scottish Landscape, I include it, since this was
my first view of Glencoe and the Buachaille Etive Mor,
as I neared the end of a walk from Bridge of Orchy. I
will be adding more pictures of Glencoe and its landscape
to the gallery in the future, but the text which follows
will hopefully give you an idea of how I came to know
and love Glencoe.
" And we'll drum up in the evening in the valley
of the Coe" The van shook with the noise of a dozen
voices belting out this one line from an old tramping
song as the Buachaille, rising from the ground like a
great pyramid came into sight. The van was an old clothiers
vehicle which we converted and was luxurious in comparison
to the open backed coal lorry, occasionally borrowed from
a local merchant to transport us, on our first hill walks.We
were are all aged around nineteen and members of the 1st
Falkirk District Rover Scout Crew. It was the Scout movement
which had intoduced us to camping and hiking and it was
a natural follow on, to take to the hills and discover
the joys of climbing and walking the airy ridges of Scotland's
mountains.
Glencoe, awesome Glencoe, became a favourite playground
for us. Our salaries could not stretch to the comforts
of a bed in the Kinghouse or Clachaig hotels, so it was
either the tent or the van itself, athough in later years,
a few of us found shelter under a bridge in the middle
of the Glen. At that time several climbing clubs had secret
"Howfs" scattered across the Glen and if you
were lucky you might get an invitation to shelter the
night. But the most famous accomodation was Jacksonville,
which still sits in the shadow of the Buachaille and is
home to the famous and if the stories are to be believd,
sometimes infamous, Creag Dhu. The club founded by lads
from Clydeside during the depression in 1930's, has played
a large part in the history and folklore of climbing in
Scotland, with some of its members being among the best
in the world. Indeed it is fair to say that Scotland has
played a huge part in the development of climbing as a
recreational sport throughout the world. In later years
I spent several nights in the 'Ville' at the invitation
of one of my pals( it was not a wise move to enter, although
it was always unlocked, without permission ) who had been
invited to join and in the dark interior, it was easy
to imagine the voices of Murray, Cunningham, Patey, Marshall
and Smith discussing the next day's climb with a young
Dougal Haston.
I don't think Baden Powell would have approved of all
our activities in Glencoe especially the nights in the
climbers bar at Kingshouse Hotel. But nonetheless it was
thanks to his movement that we discovered the outdoors
and I still thank him for it.
It was special to spend New Year in Glencoe, but never
make the mistake of seeing the bells in at the Clachaig,
when you have pitched your tent ten miles away, at the
Kingshouse. As they say it seemed like a good idea at
the time. Kingshouse was our base, it was this end of
the Glen we were drawn to, of course the magnet was, without
doubt, the Buachaille.
Blackrock Cottage belongs to the Ladies Scottish Climbing
Club and sits at the side of the road near the White Corries
Ski lift and can be booked by other recognized Mountaineering
Clubs. The walk from Bridge of Orchy I mentioned, is now
part of the West Highland Way, which passes through the
top end of Glencoe before climbing over the Devil's Staircase
to Kinlochleven.
One week after leaving the confines of the office and
leaving behind over forty years of meeting deadlines,
I headed for Glencoe. As I sat above the Meeting of the
Three Waters I realised that I now had the time to look
at the Glen anew, and to re-acquaint myself properly with
its landscape and also to appreciate the fact, that I
now have time to photograph it, in its many moods. I called
in at the Kingshouse and couldn't resist using the phone
to let the office know, what a wonderful day it was in
Glencoe. I'm sure you can imagine the reaction.